“The hike to our bivouac was supposed to take 2 to 3 hours. An exposed knife edge ridge turned into 6. I thought for sure we were lost only to find the bivouac, a glorified portaledge, bolted to the side of the cliff. I guess this is their way of crowd control over here. Sleeping was pretty much useless. I have never slept this high and with Mont Blanc out the front door cleaning itself every ten minutes the energy was like nothing I have felt before.
We dropped into the abyss at 3AM and hopes were high. We had given the face an extra day to set up because it was more loaded from the last storm then expected. The forecast was for clear skies but it was wrong. The night was not cold and clear and the mountains had not locked up like we needed them to. By 5 AM we were at our point of no return. As much as we wanted to push on it was clear things were too warm. This was confirmed by the distant sound of snow or ice crumbling down the mountain.
With colder temps in the forecast we retraced our steps and headed to lower ground. Our three days of dealing left us empty handed but our hopes are high for another attempt in a few days…“
More infos: www.jeremyjones.net
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